Text: Irina Dubina Here is a photo of a guy in stretched exercises, a washed shirt and worn out ugg boots. In another picture - he, dressed in a ragged T-shirt with a slick spot on his chest and seeing life boots. The next shot, and this same guy is posing for everything in the same exercises, tucked into socks, a stupid T-shirt and sneakers that might well be his peers. No, this is not some newspaper article about the life of a New York homeless person, but an instream account shiasoutfits, which creative director Urban Outfitters Bobby Wingham started in April this year and which has already managed to recruit sixteen thousand subscribers. Publication from Shia's Outfits (@shiasoutfits) Aug 14 2017 at 6:35 PDT Bobby documents every public appearance of Shai Labash, and the focus of his attention, as one might guess from the title, is the eccentric images of the actor: a set of turquoise hoodies and bright purple legings, T-shirt with the inscription "Fuck Twilight" and other equally impressive bows. According to Bobby, among the followers of shiasoutfits, not only are Labafa fans, but also prominent figures in the fashion industry: from stylist David Vaindvall, who worked with Elle and WSJ Magazine, to the brand director of the Grailed online platform, Lawrence Schlossmann. Such an excitement around the actor, caused not only by his public appearances, can be understood: often a guy whose choice of clothes before leaving the house, apparently, takes no longer than thirty seconds, looks at times more stylish and inspires more strongly than all Streetstyle reports together (hello to the starting weeks of fashion), not to mention the photo chronicles of secular events. The question arises - why so? Since the fashion has finally turned into a part of pop culture, to be involved in it has become, sorry for the tautology, fashionable. Fashion has become part of the mainstream, which any student can touch. The degree of involvement can be very different: from direct work in the fashion industry to laying out their bows in instagram with the goal to collect as many likes. Hardly anyone can be reproached for wanting to get their fifteen seconds of glory, but behind all these deliberate attempts to look fashionable and to broadcast all the trends at once the main thing that should shape the individuality is his own vision, not clouded by the dictate of trendbooks. Erasing the boundaries of private and common is also part of modern pop culture, and against this background, high-profile characters with a unique taste stand out especially. Fashion is moving more and more confidently towards absolute democratization and maximum coverage of the audience. Suffice it to look at the current teenagers: in 2008, twelve-year-old Tavi Gavinson became a sensation as the youngest fashion blogger, but now young fashionistas on the blue eye tell that they "took a great interest in fashion before it became mainstream - two or three years ago". Publication from @olseninfluence Sep 1 2017 at 9:49 PDT The more the funnel is twirled from trendetsetters and their imitators, the more people learn about who Alessandro Michele is, the more valuable those who do not wonder fashion at all altogether. The catch is that often freedom of expression, which was laid out the way to the glory of the same Gavinson and other people, which is commonly called the cliche "style icon", is increasingly replaced by the necessity of a supposedly "right" choice: the sneakers are necessarily from the most anticipated drop of the season, the socks of ankle boots like Balenciaga, overshoot dz - with a combed stringer in the vein Vetements or Yeezy. Following certain visual codes, it's much easier to be involved in a fashionable caste. It feels like being in the opposite camp, which intentionally ignores the trends and avoids everything around which the hype is spinning, at least not cool, but as far as it's shameful: if you're not on the topic, why the swiss with the Supreme logo now stands like an airplane, then to talk to you about nothing. But the paradox is that the more the funnel from the trendetters and their imitators winds up, the more people learn about who Alessandro Michele is, and starts dreaming about fur-slippers, the more valuable those who are not interested in fashion at all. Another eight years ago, authenticity, which the fashion industry always lacked, was searched on the streets, blogs and streetstyle, but thanks to the popularization of fashion, the boundaries between individuality and mainstream almost ceased to exist. Swedish bloggers began to broadcast their own vision of beauty through the prism of minimalism - two years later the color scheme "white-gray-black" and laconic design in the best traditions of COS could be found on every second. Gucci showed their first collections a la vintage romanticism - all of a sudden they started wearing pleated skirts and glasses-drops without diopters. Demna Gvasalia went to the main stage with his hyper-coats and giant hoodies - how it all ended, we are well aware. The fact that every self-respecting mass market produces things marked as "hayp" is not bad: after all, this is their task as fashion producers. The fact that people want to feel involved in a big pop culture phenomenon called fashion is also quite understandable - in the 1990s, for example, the similar role of the translator of everything cool was given to MTV. But in an effort to look as trendy as possible, the most important thing is often lost: personality. The whole beauty of self-expression through clothes is that you can tell the world about yourself without saying a word, but if your voice is lost among another thousand similar ones - what is the advantage? Publication from Balenciaga (@balenciaga) Jun 21 2017 at 3:48 PDT The only way to look fashionable today is not to try to look fashionable. The paradox is that even the denial of trends is already a trend. Against the backdrop of the general madness in fashion, the anti-adherent performed by Lababath and his ilk is like a sip of water, because for the most part they look like they do not care about the appearance. In this there is honesty, not covered up by a glossy shell, like in raw instary-storiz, which are often more interesting to watch than those photos of Faistin polished in the tape. For the past few years, the example of this "I do not give a fuck" image was the sisters Olsen: their everyday bows in the spirit of "put on first that raised from the floor" look much livelier than carefully stylized secular outlets (although they look much lively others). Perhaps the whole point is that we are finally tired of the same type of verified pictures and our eye needs something more catchy, something imperfect, annoying the habitual sense of beauty and therefore giving impulse. This is largely the reason for the popularity of the "ugly" fashion and nostalgic images of Goshi Rubchinsky and Demna Gvasalia - irony, however, is that later they themselves became the mainstream.

In the end, the only way to look fashionable today is not to try to look fashionable. The paradox is that even the very negation of trends is already a trend. It remains only to wait until it becomes more massive and exhausts itself. At least the creative team of Balenciaga obviously already subscribed to shiasoutfits - just look at the latest men's collection of the brand to find the intersection points. Cover: Getty Images Original article: Anti-theft: Why are unfashionable - the most fashionable.