I'll tell you a little about the hike to the mountain of Moses. It is in the south of the Sinai Peninsula. For two thousand years, it has attracted pilgrims. Holy place for Christians, Muslims, Jews. Climbing starts at midnight. On top you need to go up to five to catch the dawn. The second reason - the day is very hot. I was lucky with the conductor. Unobtrusive and reliable. Even the same age. Bedouin from a nearby village. Do not eat meat and does not like sweets. During the journey, he drinks only tea. Distance only 6.2 km. But all the time up. In the dark. A flashlight lit up the gray stones rustling under their feet. Only the sound of wind and stars. They fell and fell.
And we went. Magdi kept the pace. And I regretted that I had not slept the day before.. The first third of the way tired the most. Cardio that's necessary! The dog was beaten. Became more cheerful. Terribly hungry, but kind. Useful hotel sandwiches. Nearly stepped on the camel. They slept in a herd on a small plateau. A round beam of light snatched from their darkness their unperturbed heads. Halfway took the spirit. It seemed more comfortable in an adobe hut than in a hard five. Drank some tea, ate Snickers. I do not even remember when I chewed it with such pleasure)) And moved on.
The dells became more frequent, and the air was completely cold. The backpack warmed my back. From walking she became wet. The wind turned moisture into ice. At least it was felt. Stoked cheerfully and at 3:40 reached the final turn - 750 steps. They were hollowed out by monks. Rise up to a maximum of half an hour. Then it would take an hour to freeze on the mountain top in anticipation of the first rays. Magdie suggested lying down. "In 40 minutes I'll wake you up". And I fell asleep on a stone bench. I covered myself with sheepskin and turned off. "It's time," I heard the voice of Magdy. Drank a hot carcade.
The light began to expose the bizarre forms of the Sinai ranges. Millions of years ago they created a volcano. Then there was the sea. Corners were cobbled together. Reminded the valley of the ghosts on Demerdzhi in the stolen Crimea. People like streams flowing from all sides. Someone on the contrary went down, not waiting for dawn. And here we are on top. Here, at the very top, the Holy Trinity Church. It is open only on major holidays. In the keyhole was able to see the ascetic interior decoration. The first Christians found shelter here far from civilization and persecution. The sun appeared somehow suddenly. Powerful and confident. Faces lit up with red heat. Ukrainians, Russians, Germans, Poles, Indians, Uruguayans. The whole world.
According to tradition, it was here that God revealed to Moses the Ten Commandments. The Prophet put them on the tablets - two stone slabs. So in the Bible. The very place makes you believe in miracles. The descent was no less interesting. Three thousand steps. The Abode of the Prophet Elijah, the most beautiful views, the oasis, the valley of fulfillment of desires, the ancient chapels. Architecturally quite unlike modern. No gilding and pathos. You can still go up to the monastery of hermits directly on the mountain slope. At the very end of the road - the monastery of St. Catherine at the foot of the mountain. His masters - Greek monks - open the gates to tourists at 08:40. On the shrine's territory, an unburnt bush burned with myths - a thornbush with a thousand-year history. Ancient icons and, interestingly, a minaret next to the Christian bell tower. Symbol of Unity of Religions.
"I was born here," said my companion. Muslim Magdi in an Orthodox monastery! Monks accept delivery. And it's amazing. Among the local Bedouins there are also Christians. And why not - so this is a religious contradiction. Here you understand their whole absurdity. God is one.
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