Correction of photoaging with medical cosmetics.

The main principle of the external treatment of photoaging is exfoliation of the surface layer of the epidermis and stimulation of the formation of keratinocytes..

The method of choice is superficial peeling with alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, citric), retinoic acid.

It makes it possible to reduce the density of the stratum corneum, improve skin hydration, its color and texture, reduce the severity of wrinkles..

Treatment is continued for a year with a break for a period of insolation.. Procedures are carried out in cosmetology establishments or special home peeling kits are used.. Fruit acids have an exfoliating effect (weaken the adhesion of the cells of the stratum corneum), which in turn leads to the activation of cell division in the basal layer.

The moisturizing effect of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is explained by the acceleration of epidermal renewal and the increase in the functionally active natural moisturizing factor.. The stimulating effect of AHA on skin fibroblasts leads to an increase in the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis.. Thus, under the action of AHA, the epidermis becomes thinner, and the dermis becomes thicker.. The stratum corneum becomes more resilient and elastic, small wrinkles are smoothed out on the skin. The most commonly used complex of several acids.

Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane, green grapes. Having the smallest molecular weight, it penetrates the epidermal barrier more easily, providing the most pronounced effect.. Has the ability to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Lactic acid is found in sour milk, yogurt, blueberries, apples, tomato juice, grapes. Has a moisturizing and exfoliating effect.

Malic acid is found in many fruits. In addition to exfoliating action, it stimulates cells, enhancing cellular metabolism..

Tartaric acid is found in free and esterified form in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges. Exfoliating, whitening and moisturizing.

To correct and slow down the processes of photoaging, external bleaching agents are used: 2-4% preparations of hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid and antioxidants: vitamins E, C, carotenoids, squalene, ubiquinone, zinc, selenium, green tea extract, grape seeds, seaside bark.

To prevent photoaging in order to reduce the number of photons reaching the skin, use photoprotective agents..

It should be remembered that ultraviolet radiation can be not only direct, but also reflected from the ground and surrounding objects.. UV rays can pass through clouds, water and even light clothing.

In addition, the amount of UV-A that reaches the ground, unlike UV-B, does not depend on the season, and exposed skin continues to receive a dose of harmful radiation.. Therefore, some scientists recommend year-round use of cosmetics with UV filters.. All UV filters are divided into chemical and physical.

Chemical - contain substances that absorb radiation of a certain wavelength, physical - particles that scatter, absorb or reflect UV radiation. In the European cosmetics requirements there are no restrictions on the concentrations of physical filters, given their biological indifference, but there are restrictions for chemical filters.

Chemical derivatives include hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (cinnamates), para-aminobenzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (UV-B filters), dibenzoylmethanebenzophenone, camphor derivatives, methyl anthranilate, octrocrylene (UV-A filters). To the physical - titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide. Natural sunscreens (aloe extract, chamomile, caffeic acid, shea butter).

Chemical filters begin to work half an hour after application to the skin:.

• UV filters based on para-aminobenzoic acid have photosensitizing and allergenic properties, so manufacturers are currently trying not to use this ingredient in sunscreen cosmetics.

• Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid is one of the most powerful chemical water soluble UV-B filters..

• Benzophenone-4 is a UV-A/UV-B water soluble filter.

• Benzophenone-3 crystalline fat soluble UV-A/UV-B filter.

• Octyl methoxycinnamate and isoamyl methoxycinnamate are very effective fat soluble liquid UV-A/B filters..

• Octyl salicylate is a fat-soluble UV-B filter that dissolves crystalline filters well..

• Octocrylene is an effective fat soluble UV-B/Shortwave UV-A filter..

• Homosalat - fat-soluble liquid UV-B filter. Has good photostability. Approved all over the world.

• Methyl anthranilate is an effective liquid fat-soluble UV-A filter..

• Methylbenzylidene camphor is a high performance crystalline fat soluble UV-B filter..

• Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane - high performance crystalline fat soluble UV-A filter.

It should be remembered that some organic filters of the UV-B spectrum in the course of toxicological studies have shown a hormone-like effect (estrogenic, antiandrogenic, proliferative activity), can selectively damage skin melanocytes when combined with insolation..

Long-term toxicological studies of UV filters in animals have shown no toxic effects in adults and a high degree of toxic effects on the processes of fetal formation and neonatal development.. This also limits the use of organic filters in cosmetics for children, adolescents and pregnant women..

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