The works of the Kyiv artist Olesya Trofimenko became the basis of Maria Grazia Chiuri's ode to the Tree of Life. The Guardian writes about the show of the next collection from Dior against the backdrop of the work of a Ukrainian embroiderer.
“What is the essence of high fashion? This question was asked by the creative director of Dior, the Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, in times of pandemic, war and the threat of a global recession of the world economic model.. The answer, she said, was to " And also to create a “bridge” between the knowledge of different cultures, with the aim of creating something meaningful together, ”the article says..
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The focus of Monday's Dior show was not silk pleated chiffon dresses or intricately embroidered cream wool coats.. Innocent interpretations of the Tree of Life dotted with flowers, fruits and birds became the key backdrop for the show..
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These works, embodying " Chiuri opened it this spring at an exhibition at MAXXI, the national museum of 21st century art in Rome, in a program dedicated to contemporary Ukrainian artists.. For this haute couture collection, the first since the start of the war in Ukraine, Curie gave Trofimenko carte blanche, and the result - these large-scale wall pieces - became the starting point for her show..
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Symbolism of the Tree of Life.
“I really like the symbolism of the Tree of Life,” she said backstage before the show… “It’s about the idea of \u200b\u200bthe cycle of life.”.
The theme of the tree of life was picked up in the collection with cream, dark brown and black maxi dresses with underwired skirts, on which nature motifs inspired by Trofimenko's work are hand embroidered..
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Universal folklore fueling hope for the world.
The fact that the tree of life is a symbol present in many cultures also appealed to Chiuri, her vision was to create a universal decorative language, a new universal folklore that promotes peace and hope.. To reinforce this concept, Chiuri also developed other handicraft details in the clothing – delicately crafted bust panels, perfectly embroidered coats, braided seams, and hand-embroidered fabrics that created an organic texture..
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Fashion as a bridge to other cultures.
Building this “bridge” to other cultures, Chiuri believes that Dior can be found “all over the world” - the smallest details are done by Parisian petits mains, but most of the embroidery - both on wall art and on a dress - was done by Indian.
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“It is important to have this dialogue and share these skills,” the fashion designer said, adding that haute couture (from French - haute couture, high fashion, ed.. ) there are good opportunities to build a bridge between different cultures.
“When you work with your hands, you are close to people”.
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Whether global peace (which the diplomat and political scientist Kissinger recently wrote about) will bring, Chiuri's fashion decisions remain a matter of debate.. But, judging by the number of selfies taken by visitors to the show against the backdrop of the works of the Kyiv artist Trofimenko, this is at least an incentive to the much-desired feeling of lightness and optimism in this difficult time..