Hormonal cosmetics promise rejuvenation a week after application. Of course, many want to rejuvenate, and even so easily! Just need to figure out what kind of hormones we are talking about.?

It is prohibited by law to add natural or synthetic estrogens (female sex hormones, on which the condition of the skin primarily depends) to creams, according to Pannochka, an online publication for girls and women from 14 to 35 years old.. net And this law is valid in Russia, and in the USA, and in Europe. All that cosmetics manufacturers can do is to introduce phytoestrogens, hormone-like compounds isolated from plants, into the composition of the products..

Here the “but” begins. Phytoestrogens are biologically active compounds that, in chemical structure and action, resemble human sex hormones (estradiol, testosterone, estrone). They are found in many plants.. For example, in red seaweed, date palm seeds and pollen, soybean and wheat germ oil, pomegranate seeds, alfalfa, pine pollen... Phytoestrogens are included in anti-aging agents to improve metabolic processes in the epidermis, to regenerate cells and strengthen the cell frame.

However, " First and foremost, not all phytoestrogens work externally.. The hormone-like properties of many of them appear only when they enter the intestines, where they are broken down by beneficial bacteria.. For example, this is the case with flaxseed oil: if you eat it, the skin will really improve, but in creams it does not reveal its full potential..

The most promising cosmetic products Steroid phytoestrogens - phytosterols are considered the most promising in cosmetology.. They are proven to be really effective in creams: protect the skin, soothe, soften, help retain moisture..

However, there is a " The fact is that the action of phytosterols is about 5000 times weaker than the action of human hormones.. For cosmetics with them to be effective, very high concentrations are needed.. For example, soybean oil contains only 0.37% of active hormone-like substances.. In order for them to work, it is not enough just to include this oil in the cream - you must first extract phytosterols from it and concentrate them using expensive technologies.. Naturally, only large cosmetic concerns with powerful research centers and their own laboratories can produce such products.. So, good creams with phytosterols cannot be cheap..

It's about the overall quality of the cream. One of the horror stories about cosmetics with phytohormones is that it is addictive. Like, while you use such a tool, the skin looks amazing, but as soon as you refuse it, the face is rapidly covered with wrinkles.. In fact, this is nothing more than a myth.. True, if, after using a good cream with phytoestrogens for a while, you change it to a modest care, it is possible that the skin will really look worse.. But it's not about phytohormones, but about the overall quality of the cream.

Creams with phytosterols are suitable for all ages.

These light, well-absorbing products are suitable for both mature and young skin.. Usually the words " Look for herbal ingredients in the ingredient list. Here are some of them:.

Mimosa bark extract - improves the protective properties of the skin and increases the number of fibroblasts.

Ginseng extract - has antioxidant properties. It is often introduced into creams for dry and sensitive skin, hair strengthening preparations..

Extract of wild yam, shea butter, argan, brazil nuts and other plants - provide long-lasting hydration of the skin.

Horse chestnut extract - has a decongestant and drainage effect.

The group stands apart Another group of bioactive plant compounds, flavonoids, stands apart. These are not phytoestrogens, but they are very similar in action: they also enhance the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, improve skin elasticity. In addition, flavonoids fight free radicals and resist the aging process in the skin..

Like phytoestrogens, flavonoids work better from the inside.. They are what make blueberries, dark chocolate and red wine so useful.. Recently, flavonoids have also been included in cosmetics: look for extracts of citrus fruits, green tea, green onions, sea buckthorn, grapes, blueberries in the list of cream ingredients.

Almost everything that has been said about phytosterols applies to creams with flavonoids:

in order for them to work, the concentration of active substances must be very high.. Such cosmetics are inevitably expensive - or the presence of flavonoids in it is only nominal.. The second option, unfortunately, is quite common.. For example, one of the important flavonoids, quercetin, has a yellow color, and in any effective concentration, yellowness will definitely remain.. Meanwhile, there are creams with quercetin in perfectly white color on the market... Kirill Matveev nedug. en.