Hypermelanoses and medical cosmetics: correction of hypermelanoses

25 February 2023, 17:43 | Health
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Correction of hypermelanoses.

There are no specific treatments.

Congenital pigmented nevus needs observation.

Acquired hypermelanoses (freckles, chloasma, melanism) require the use of cosmetic depigmenting and photoprotective agents.

Toxic, artifactual hypermelanoses - elimination of the cause and underlying pathology.

Secondary hypermelanoses do not require treatment and resolve on their own.. Since oxidation plays an important role in the process of melanin synthesis, the use of antioxidants in the complex correction of hypermelanoses gives a positive result..

Basic methods and biologically active substances in the correction of hypermelanoses.

Skin whitening includes products that exfoliate the stratum corneum and depigment.

Exfoliating (removes cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis): 2% mercury white ointment, phenol, 20% salicylic alcohol, alpha hydroxy acids (ANA) (lactic, glycolic, citric acids), retinoids, extracts of lemon, grapefruit, cucumber,.

Depigmenting (suppress melanin synthesis in melanocytes):.

• Hydroquinone inhibits the synthesis of DNA and RNA of melanocytes, inhibits tyrosinase. Used at a concentration of 1-2%, sometimes 4%. Present in strawberry and bearberry. Since hydroquinone penetrates the skin well and can be absorbed into the blood, it should not be used during pregnancy and lactation..

When using hydroquinone, allergic and contact dermatitis, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation of adjacent normal skin can be observed, in people with dark skin, ochronosis may occur - darkening of the treated skin, and then its atrophy.

Usually preparations with hydroquinone are used up to 2 years, if a positive effect is not observed within 6 months, another bleaching agent is recommended.. Combines well with AHA, Kojic Acid, Retinoic Acid.

• Aloesin - a tyrosinase inhibitor isolated from aloe.

• Arbutin (hydroquinone glycoside, tyrosinase inhibitor) found in bearberry, cranberry, blueberry, blueberry, ledum, strawberry. Arbutin (?-d-hydroxypyranoside hydroquinone) inhibits the synthesis of melanin without exerting a toxic effect on skin cells. When applied to the skin, it does not hydrolyze to hydroquinone, since the enzymes necessary for this are absent in the skin..

• Kojic acid - is a tyrosinase inhibitor, has an exfoliating effect, is able to bind ferrous ions and intercept free radicals. The main disadvantage of kojic acid is its potential allergenicity, so it is necessary to carry out an allergic test.. At the first sign of dermatitis, the use of kojic acid should be discontinued..

• Kojic acid dipalmitate - an inhibitor of dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA)-chromium tautomerase. Used at a concentration of 2%. Before use, an application test is required, as the drug is very allergenic..

• Phytic acid - stimulator of cell division, keratolytic. Inhibits free radical processes, chelates (binds) copper ions, prevents inflammation.

• Vitamin C - inhibits melanogenesis, reducing DOPA-chromium to DOPA-quinone, inhibits tyrosinase.

• Ascorbyl - 2-magnesium phosphate has a similar effect, and also stimulates collagen synthesis and is an antioxidant. Used in a concentration of 0.3-3%. May cause skin irritation.

• Azelaic acid reduces the synthesis of DNA and RNA, inhibits tyrosinase. Combines well with 2% hydroquinone and tretinoin.

• Derivatives of azelaic acid - potassium azelayl dihydrate, produced in the form of a 3% aqueous solution.

• Placenta extract is a mixture of steroids and amino acids. The mechanism of clarification is not clear. Effective only in combination.

• Albatin - inhibitor of DOPA-chromium tautomerase.

• Gentisic acid - tyrosinase inhibitor with low toxicity.

• Tyrosine hydroxylase inhibitors - vit. E inside, a-tocopherol ferulate, when applied externally, absorbs ultraviolet rays and inhibits melanogenesis.

• Topical omega-3 fatty acids inhibit melanogenesis and exfoliate.

Herbal preparations also have bleaching and depigmenting effects (tyrosinase inhibition, binding of copper, silver, bismuth, arsenic, oxidation of sulfhydryl groups), astringent, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, photoprotective and antioxidant, tonic and softening effects..

Whitening herbal remedies contain:.

• Phenols (phenol, hydroquinone, thymol, cavacrol, eugenol, vanillin, arbutin, salicin). Contained in strawberry, bearberry, erica, marjoram, thyme, thyme, star anise, anise, fennel, cloves, cinnamon, basil, vanilla tree, wintergreen, bergenia, rosemary, cranberry, blueberry, blueberry, mulberry.

• Derivatives of phenylcarboxylic acids (gallic, salicylic, cinnamic, caffeic, orthocoumaric). Contained in bearberry.

• Sulfides in combination with iron and copper - in onions.

• Vitamin C - in cucumber, lemon, viburnum, onion.

New herbal preparations:.

• Emblina (Emblina, Germany-USA) from a tree plant Phyllonthus emblica, growing in tropical regions of Southeast Asia. Contains tannins, pedunculagin, punyglucanin. Used externally in the form of a 1-2% solution.

• Burnet extract contains an endothelin antagonist that blocks the production of endothelin-1 and suppresses the production of melanin.



• Soy milk and soybeans contain a serine protease inhibitor, which is an inhibitor of the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes..

• Walteria indica extract containing ferulic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor. As part of the drug Dermawhite NF is contained in combination with gluconic acid (binds copper) and citric acid (keratolytic).

Herbal bleaching products combine well with AHAs, other herbal extracts and oils..

medbe. en.

Based on materials: medbe.ru



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