Text: Daria Burkova In the last century, decorative cosmetics was simply decorative cosmetics: dense, pigmented and not even too resistant - skin care and speech did not go. Thus was born the myth that make-up spoils the skin; this idea still sits in the minds of many, not letting them live and dye. Since the first hard carcass and talc powder has changed a lot, including the attitude of buyers to what should be decorative cosmetics.
Perricone MD No Foundation Foundation Serum SPF 30 with neuropeptides, alpha-lipoic acid and vitamin C.
BB-cream Shiseido Sports BB SPF 50+ with amino acids.
Crayon Sensai Flawless Satin Foundation with an extract of Imperial silkWe now want not just an ideal foundation, which will last all day, do not change its color, merge with the skin and at the same time make it as beautiful as possible - it's all taken for granted. We want a foundation, which will additionally take care of the skin, replacing the face cream and sunscreen, which will save us two layers of makeup without compromising beauty. We asked - and we heard. On the market came the endless BB-, CC-, DD-, EE-creams, which promise everything at once: correction of face tone and skin texture, and even hydration, nutrition, redness removal, protection against free radicals, sun rays and even radiation of smartphone screens. Soon heavy artillery joined. Manufacturers of luxury steel necessarily add to tonal creams, lipsticks, blush and even face powder, caring components: silk extracts, extracts from plants, vitamins C and E and even the notorious hyaluronic acid. Next went the American cosmetologist Nicholas Perricon, who released under his own brand Perricone MD a whole collection of makeup cosmetics No Makeup Makeup. Her philosophy - imperceptible make-up and full-fledged skin care. Creams, concealers, blushers, hailers, bronzers, shadows, lip glosses, lipsticks and even mascara Dr. Perricon supplied with the same ingredients with which his cosmetic cosmetics are famous. So, in the lineup for full-fledged makeup were neuropeptides, vitamin C ether, alpha-lipoic acid, DMAE, hyaluronic acid and, of course, sunscreen filters. "A truly modern decorative cosmetics - this is not just a make-up with courtship functions. This is a make-up integrated into an intensive full-fledged skin care, "- says Elena Kuznitskaya, leading cosmetologist of the brands EviDenS de Beaute and Perricone MD. Interestingly, the same foundation No Foundation Foundation is praised by fans of "invisible" makeup. It is possible that she does perform her courtship functions, but everyone agrees that those who need tonal means to conceal pigmentation and irregularities, it will not do: the density of the coating is, as with many similar means, very modest. Concealer Bobbi Brown Instant Full Cover Concealer with Vitamins C and Erumiana Estee Lauder Genuine Glow Blush with Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamins C and ESS Cream IT SPC 50+ with Collagen, Peptides, Niacinamide and Antioxidants The presence of SPF has become mandatory condition for modern decorative cosmetics. Now, not only tonal creams promise us protection from the sun, but, finally, concealers, lipsticks, blush, shadows and bronzers. But is it so effective? In an age of general insanity on skin care and peelings, we often do not need to apply a thick layer of cosmetics on the face - everything is so good. It is necessary only a little to level a tone of a skin a drop of a voice-frequency whey and to add the face of brightness to other products. Alas, the minimum amount of funds that we apply (the question of the uniformity of the coating is left out of the picture), can not fully provide full protection from the sun, even at the level of the nominal SPF 10. This indispensable step, alas, ah, can not be excluded, except that only applying a thick layer of BB-cream with SPF 50 - but then what kind of "light" coating can we talk about? As for caring components, each brand includes in the decorative cosmetics sign for its brand care elements, or even produces a foundation in one line with courtship means. Such products are in Shiseido (foundation of Future Solution LX), Chanel (Sublimage Le Teint), Giorgio Armani Beauty (Crema Nuda), Dior (Capture Totale) and Sensai. The latter in all its means adds an extract of the Japanese imperial silk. As you can see, all these products - from age-specific brands aimed at a certain audience. Otherwise, serious care is promised unless CC- and BB-creams - full-tonal funds are still only complementing it. Thus, the American bestseller IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC Cream SPF 50+ includes collagen, peptides, niacinamide and a whole complex of antioxidants. With such a remedy, you can really exclude the face cream by betting only on whey. Most of all, lucky to our lips: the producers have always tried to make the composition of the products for them as nutritious as possible, and now the addition of mango oil, vitamins C and E and some other patented complex is an almost documented rule. In fact, such a lipstick is a well-pigmented balm, and many brands have long learned to make funds that are strong and leave a bright color on their lips and ensure reliable hydration and nutrition. With other means so far, everything is not so simple. Haylayter Sergey Naumov Aurora Extreme Radiant Afterglow with vitamins C, E and jojoba oilThis lip balm Kiehl's Butterstick Lip Treatment Touch of Berry SPF 25 with coconut and lemon oils Tom Ford Lips & Boys Christiano lipstick with soybean extract, murumur and chamomile oils. that under the word "care" we often mean the use of funds with a sufficient concentration of active ingredients: their chemical characteristics and the presence of enhancers affect the final formula of the agent. The caring and decorative products still have different functions: in the first case we choose the formulations that can penetrate the dermis to the maximum possible depth, and improve the quality of the skin in the epidermis, in the second we look for pigmented textures that are good (and without this possibility damage) are kept on the surface of the skin. It is difficult to imagine that one product would perform both tasks without loss of basic "decorative" qualities: durability, density and comfort of the coating. The producers themselves today declare that the new decorative cosmetics is not a substitute for caring products, but only a pleasant addition. "Such cosmetics over time can solve those problems that it masks, for example, to eliminate redness, improve the complexion. But you need to understand that it will never perform the function of full-fledged care, "says Maria Perova, Sensai coach. The colleague from Shiseido Sergey Khachaturyan agrees with her. According to him, the components of care are added to the decorative cosmetics in order to supplement the action of the basic care and to improve the comfort of the texture of the make-up agents. Advertising interests also play a role. "Each manufacturer tries to distinguish its product. If there is an opportunity to make the formula not only bright and stable, but also caring - this is an added plus, - says coach Shiseido. "It's fair to say that cosmetic companies are testing the effectiveness of caring components in makeup and see their effectiveness, but it is incomparable with the work of essential skin care products". It is important for the buyer to decide on the priorities: if you plan to assign all possible hopes to one serum, your project is likely to fail, and you will not be able to refuse the standard daily care - you should not trust the tempting advertising, and it's better to stop on reliable separation of makeup and care. On the other hand, those who are concerned about eternal dehydration, blush with oils and amino acids will please more than a normal dry product or a liquid with glycerin content: they do not draw moisture from the skin and will not turn into crumbling plaster during the day.
In any case, to ensure full-fledged skin care with one tonal cream is unlikely to succeed. Nevertheless, in conjunction with the usual care products for makeup "two in one" can serve a good service: at least they already know how to coexist well with a full-fledged care - and this is still a new level of comfort. Photos: Sephora, It Cosmetics, Ile de Bote, Sensai, Bobbi Brown, Estee Lauder, Aizel, Kiehl's, Tom Ford.
Original article: Magic Cream: Can Decorative Cosmetics Replace Skin Care.