Embroidery day or embroidered shirt? As the Ukrainians called the embroidered shirt embroidery

15 May 2025, 14:31 | Art 
фото с Зеркало недели

Embroidery Day is admiration for youth. The holiday was born in 2006 in the student circle of the Chernivtsi National University named after Yuri Fedkovich. Future political scientist Igor Zhitaryuk from time to time put on an embroidered shirt per couples. His classmate Lesya Voronyuk drew attention to this and offered to choose one day and everyone to come for pairs in embroidered shirts and take a common photo. Over time, this became the tradition of the faculty, university, Ukrainian students, the whole country and finally Ukrainians around the world. Now the holiday is celebrated by many of those who support the struggle of Ukraine for independence, statehood, is suffering from the soul for victory in the war against Russian aggression. From the request “Put the embroidered shirt for couples”, the name of the event “Embroidery Day” was born, which became the holiday - World Embroidery Day.

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The name of the tradition that Bukovinskaya youth created and gave it the name, from time to time causes disputes. Ethnographers and folklorists drew attention to the fact that carriers of traditional Ukrainian culture of the XIX - early twentieth centuries did not call embroidered clothes " But the word "

When Ukrainians began to call embroidered shirt embroidery?

The oldest source, where the existence of this word is recorded in the Ukrainian language, is the Ukrainian-Russian dictionary of 1855. It was streamlined by Alexander Afanasyev-Chuzhbinsky and published in St. Petersburg under the name " The dictionary gives two meanings of the word “embroidery” (with an emphasis on the second syllable): the first is embroidery in general, the second is a female embroidered shirt, which the embroidery can still be called.

The word " Since 1884, with the permission of the censorship committee and the local provincial government, Olga Kosach's play “World Thin” has been given by Olga Kosach. Olga Petrovna, known for the literary pseudonym Oleen Pchilka, was able to print this work in Ukrainian, only in 1908, since in 1876–1905 the Emsk decree was in force on the ban on Ukrainian print media. In one of the scenes of this comedy of the Domach (Klyuchnitsa Pan Pavlushchenko) turns to Mary (youth, who serves with Pan Krasovsky): “... I wicked Nap’yal, th namysta ponachi” [Olena Bag. Svitova RICH. Ridny Territory. 1908. No. 31. 8].

At the end of the XIX - beginning of the twentieth century, the word " This word designated embroidery, decorating different things. Lesya Ukrainka, while in the Crimea on treatment, in a letter to her mother in 1898, asked to send a shirt with Podolsk Embroidery to make her doctor from Yalta, Pan Derizhanova: “Maybe the person who sells silver Podolsk embroidered shirts will meet, so buy them (with one silver, without silk and gold) for one male shirt and came her, if possible, if possible, if possible, if possible, if possible, if you can. Der [Izhanov] once saw my blouse with a silver insert and was delighted with a large one, he repeated: “Now, if I had such a shirt for the summer! " [Lesya Ukrainka. Every academician Zizhranny Creative: in 14 volumes. 12. Lutsk: Vozh. 120.

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The word " Leafing through the RIDSHY TSKA newspaper, we read: “... embroideries“ cutting out ”are real works of art”, “the store occupies six rooms completely filled with embroidery, weaving products”, “sell these embroideries for hundreds and thousands of rubles”. Only in 1912, Olena Pchilka was able to write in Ukrainian a preface to the fourth reprint of her album “Ukrainian Patterns”, starting with the words: “Ukrainian Vishivanki clicks have been reduced by their beauty”.

Later, ethnographic and art criticism of Ukrainian scientists Stefan Taranushenko, Vera Biletskaya, Nina Great and others about embroidery in the meaning of embroidery. Even in the artistic Ukrainian-speaking novel for the youth of Vasily Koroliv-old “Blacks”, this word appears-“Chudova Vishivanka” of the work of Gretchen, “not Vishivanka” from Japan, “Narodnoye Mistress-Kilimi, Vishivanka”. When it comes to clothes, the writer writes " [Koroliv-Stariy in. Hubes. Kyiv; Prague: Pauliki. 186, 190, 307.

The word " Irina Wilde in the novel " At the same time, the Ukrainian embroidery was of particular importance for her heroine: “I threw it to my blouse to my blouse.... Create in P’yati volumes. Sisters Richinski. Kyiv: Dnipro, 1987. 127, 258.

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The talented poet Andrei Malyshko united the shirt with embroidered shirt. This happened during World War II. He worked as a military correspondent and wrote poetry with the words:.

I will know the shirt, Vishivanka I above, yak clap, radiy.

The poetic work was published in 1946 in the collection of the war "

Already in the early 1960s, embroidery became a special symbol that carries Ukrainian meanings. The newspaper Cherkashchini has a column " Ukrainians created their culture, embroidered shirts, wrote poetry, sang songs. There was a Ukrainian identity, there was a topic of embroidery. It was cultural life, poetic, musical, as well as cinema contributed to the appearance of the phenomenon of the shirt-suture, and in the end just embroidery.

In 1962, the premiere of the musical comedy " The film was focused on the audience of the entire Soviet Union, shot in Russian at the Kyiv film studio named after Alexander Dovzhenko. The Ukrainian -speaking song “Vishivanka” to the words of Nikolai Som and the music of Oscar Sandler performed by Bandurists Nina Pavlenko, Nelly Bout and Valentina Tretyakova was a great success.. Then the words sounded:.

I pydu in Nonіyolenka on a party, I give a sweet wischyanka.

Fun, miy falcon, chi do not get angry, - I will wear it.

An unforgettable hit was the folk song in the musical processing of Levka Dutkivsky “Oh, Chorn, I Si Chorn”. The song sounded in the film " Star performance by Alla Zborlukova, Vasily Zinkevich and Nazariy Yaremchuk songs with the words “Ivanko, the same ilivko, Sorochka-Vishivanka” immediately made her megapopular. But a completely different fate befell the film and group "

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The film was shot by Estonian television studio in 1975. According to the memoirs of Levka Dutkivsky, he was only shown on central television and never once on the Ukrainian screen [website of the page of memory of Vladimir Ivasyuk]. After the premiere, the Smerichka team began to be criticized at the party meeting, although the participants themselves were not communists. Soviet power " In Ukraine, there is only one low quality film with video recording. The picture was appreciated abroad, the Estonians were able to sell it in 16 countries.

Why did the film did not like the official Russian-Soviet authorities? Probably because Ukrainian culture is represented too brightly and modernly. Perhaps due to the fact that he was shot by a Tallinn film studio, not Moscow. Contrary to all, the Ukrainian shirt-swayed through the song became a symbol of Ukrainian identity even when it was impossible to declare aloud about Ukrainian as a national idea.

In the first year of the Russian full-scale invasion of Ukraine, the illustrator Andrei Ermolenko posted on the Facebook network the ornament “Heroes do not die” with the words: “Ukrainian pixel, embroidered shirt created by the war, it seems that this is a chaos of war, but this is an algorithm that protects life”. Ukrainian pixel has become a symbolic talisman-pierce for our country. Save the embroidered shirt - we will save Ukraine and Ukraine.

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Источник: Зеркало недели